Pure Fix Original Bike Assembly

Prep and Tools

  • Grease for pedals, stem bolts, and seatpost.
  • e. Park Tool Grease
  • 4, 5, 6 wrench or combo folding wrench
  • 15mm combo wrench
  • Lock ring tool (for fixed equipment set up)

Our Initial series now include rear brake kits. Have a look at our installation guide to assemble the pure fix bike here.

The Almighty Unboxing

Make certain your bike is upright with the arrows printed on the box pointed upward. Cut the binding straps to open the box and lift the bike by the frame and back wheel. Place the bike flat on the ground with the attached front wheel facing upward. Use scissors to cut the zip ties that secure the front wheel into the frame.

Remove the plastic protectors from the axle and set the wheel apart for the time being. Then remove the black protectors in the front and rear dropouts and some other packing material. (Be careful to stay clear of the front brake cable with your blade).

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Stand the bike upright with the fork and shield on the ground. Grease the inside of the seattube of the frame (not the seatpost, if you do not want a mess on your hands).

Replace the seat post collar making sure it’s flush with the bicycle frame.

Slide the seat post to the frame ensuring that the minimum insertion marker is below the collar and your saddle is aligned with the frame.

Using your 5mm Allen wrenches tighten the seatpost collar.

Handlebar and Brake Install

Using your 4mm Allen wrench, unscrew the stem face plate from the stem. Center the handlebars and start screwing from the bolts. Do a little bit of every bolt at a time so they all get tightened evenly. If you tighten each bolt all the way rather than a little at a time, you can wind up getting misaligned bars or snapped bolts.

When the bolts are evenly tightened to ‘almost snug’, place your pubs and evenly tighten the rest of the way until you can’t twist the bars from position. (Be sure not to over tighten, you may damage your stem face plate).

As this point you may take the front brake lever that is attached to the brake caliper and frame and remove the clamp bolt using the 4mm Allen wrench.

Position the brake lever on the left side of the handlebar and, using the clamp bolt, fasten the brake lever. You will want to unpack the pedals from the little included cardboard box. The pedals will be marked with an “R” or an “L”. This will indicate which side of bike the pedal will fit.

Make certain before you install your pedals you correctly grease the pedal threads. This will make certain you’re able to remove your pedal down the line if you choose to upgrade.

Drive Side

Now it’s time to bust out that 15mm wrench. We’re going to begin on the right-hand side of the bike. Take the pedal labeled” and carefully insert the pedal thread to the right crank arm and begin to turn to the right (clockwise). Following the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench (clockwise) and get that pedal tightened and secured. Make sure to not over tighten as this may cause stripping.

  • Take the pedal labeled “L” and, again, begin by greasing the threads onto the pedal and the crank arm.
  • This means that you’re going to tighten the pedal by turning it to the left (counter-clockwise). “Lefty tightly” may seem a bit counterintuitive, but it is massively important to remember when installing your pedals.
  • After the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench and find that pedal tightened and secured. Again, make certain to not over tighten as this may cause stripping.
  • After you have finished take a step back and marvel at your work. You are one step closer to using a built up bicycle!
  • There will be little black lever on your brake caliper called the brake quick release, turn it out to the open position.
  • As soon as your wheel is in place use your 15mm wrench to tighten those down axle nuts.
  • With many fasteners on the bike you’ll want to be careful not to over tighten, but with these you need to be sure they are secure. The hub itself will stop the bolt from turning once it’s tightened down.
  • Now re-engage your brake quick release.
  • Brake Adjustment
  • Your brake caliper will open completely, no worries that are a-ok!

Finishing Up

Using one hand pinch the caliper until the pads are lightly touching the braking surface. With the flip side, pull the cable taut and tighten that 5mm bolt back up again. As soon as you go you should just have a few millimeters of distance between the brake pads and the rim on either side.

If you notice that one pad is closer to the rim then another, just push the calipers back to center.

Now you may wish to align the pads into the rim. Loosen the 4mm bolt holding the mat into the caliper. Align the mat with the braking surface so that the cover of the pad is near the edge of the rim without calling the drill (contact with the drill is BAD. It can strip important rubber form the sidewall and result in a blowout).

Tighten down that bolt ensuring the mat does not misalign. Twist front wheel and to be certain that there is no contact between the tire/brakes/rim/wheel when the brake is not engaged.

Safety Check

First, go over every bolt and be sure nothing is loose and we mean each bolt. Here’s a listing of bolts we have not gone over in assembly:

We did not worry about getting that seat exactly where we wanted it when we greased and installed the seatpost. Now you can loosen that seatpost clamp and centre the saddle on the top tube of the bike and adjust for height. Just remember not to increase your seatpost beyond that minimum insertion line.

Now, you’ll also want to look at your chain tension. If your chain is too loose it could fall off your chainring and rear cog (not great ). If it’s too tight, you will prematurely wear out your string (also not great ).

Then back off the string tension bolts until you can slide the axle somewhat in the rear dropouts to get a good starting point.

Twist the rear wheel until you find where the chain has the most tension.

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